Dar es Salaam to Arusha, Tanzania

Saturday, August 27, 2011



August 15, 2011


Well folks. Adventure #1 has officially begun. We are driving (yes that’s correct – driving) to Uganda and Rwanda from Tanzania. While the average person would probably not consider driving through Tanzania, across Kenya into Uganda, onto Rwanda and back into Tanzania, we signed on quickly. I mean really why not. The whole point of this year is for him to explore as much of Africa as possible.


Traffic in Dar at 0600 will make you question getting in a car in “normal” working hours. At 0600 the line to get into Dar was at least an hour outside of the city. I can only image what it looked like by 0800. Then, there were people waiting on the bus. Probably a few hundred people waiting. No wonder it takes forever for anything to get done in Tanzania. They aren’t at work because they are waiting for the bus.


Tanzania is beautiful and there are a few things that surprised us. Tanzania has a lot of rolling hills and mountains (with a few pretty steep cliffs). Sections are lush and green with tons of banana and orange trees. Others are dry and look like an elephant may stroll up to the car looking for a peanut. But, the only animals we saw were goats, cows, and donkeys being herded by their Masai owners. Another shocker – there are people EVERYWHERE. And I’m not kidding. We literally did not travel a full kilometer without seeing at least one person.


A few oddities. Liam and I are mzungus. It’s the term Tanzanians (and maybe other Swahili speaking countries) give to white people who come to their country. It isn’t meant to be derogatory – just a description. Well, we experienced our first “real” experience with mzungu pricing. We stopped for gas and the guy running the show told Liam “For you, the price is 2400 per liter.” Everywhere else, 2070 per liter. The government controls the prices. Had we known there were quite a few gas stations up ahead, we would have kept going. Lesson learned.


And did I mention the speed bumps. No warning. Frequent. They suck. Liam did come one step closer to finding his elusive honey badger. We passed a honey badger campground on our way into Arusha. A minor clue, but still a clue on his hunt. We didn’t get a picture – but we promise to the next time we drive up there.


At this gas station, I had my first experience with a hole in the floor toilet. I knew it was going to happen, just a matter of when. It was a pretty clean little space. I’m sure in our travels throughout Africa it won’t be my last. All I can say is after being fearful of squatting on the side of the road and being bit by something, the hole seemed comforting. My reality is warped. But, this is Africa.


Something else we noticed while driving across the country, as cars pass each other on the road, they turn on their turning signal or flash their bright lights. I’m not sure the significance of this one – but I’m going to find out. It was really annoying driving down the road when people were constantly turning on their turn signals, but never planning on turning. Between the random turn signals, frequent speed bumps, and buses trying to kill their passengers by driving like maniacs, Liam was ready to be done driving.


Along the way, we saw a ton of really red soil. Many houses were crafted out of this mud and sticks. Really beautiful colored homes – who needs paint? The only thing is I remember growing up with red clay in Mississippi. Your feet turn bright red and it takes a while for it to wear off. Needless to say, I noticed some pretty red toes walking around.


We also saw a few monkeys run across the road. I woke up from a little nap with Liam saying “Monkeys. Monkeys. Monkeys.” Camera was in hand we got a couple of shots. Liam talked about the monkeys for hours. I think I’ve got to get this boy into a natural primate park. I think he will feel at home.


We stayed at the Impala Hotel in Arusha. Not too bad for $110 a night. We will probably stay there again in the future. Pretty clean, mosquito nets, hot water, and breakfast. Works for us.


Liam’s local beer review: Kilimanjaro – It’s drinkable and cheap. Two very important qualities.


Lost somewhere in Africa

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Liam is still working. I'm still mooching. But, I had a thought and wanted to share. Everywhere we have been serves wet food versus dry food. By wet food, I mean covered and smothered in delicious gravies. This is not going to bode well for shrinking backsides. In fact, I'm pretty sure I'm going to develop an addiction for pepper gravy. It's just so delicious. Gotta find a way to account for gravies in post-baby weight loss without giving up staples like Cadbury chocolate or glass bottle Coke. Because, we can't get too crazy. Africa has already taken over my taste buds. I'm doomed.

We haven't forgotten about you..

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

We are off hunting for a honey badger. Don't worry, while we are gone - here is your entertainment...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4r7wHMg5Yjg


Liam is on a mission to find one...I'm joining because why not. I'm hoping for a moment like "FYI - you've been bitten."

Back to the hunt.

The Slipway

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Slipway is around the corner from our house and it's rapidly becoming one of our favorite places to hang out. Here's the link - http://www.slipway.net/index.php. There's food, a bookstore, and a fantastic junk store made out of lots of individual booths. Now by junk, I mean tacky - yet, surprisingly cool - souvenirs. And if you come visit, I promise to take you there for your required ration of tacky souvenirs. We are forming our own collection, too. Don't you worry.

Back to the task at hand. Yesterday, we made two trips to Slipway looking for various items. The bookstore was the main point of venture where I found "the book." The one I have been hunting for since we found out we would be living on the Indian Ocean. And I'm very happy to have confirmed it's existence.

Now, I don't have to wonder what is out there. I know! Daily nerd point - earned. We were also looking for country maps for our travels. However, the maps didn't have coordinates and other information Liam wanted. We picked up a book about Dar es Salaam for entertaining ourselves and others while we are here.

After we ran a couple of other errands, we returned to the booths looking for a few pieces of furniture. Well, we came home with other things. Two paintings.













The giraffe was just a fun purchase to eliminate some white wall space. The blue Masi painting I fell in love with a couple of weeks ago. I was watching the artist paint when my eyes fell on this one drying in the sun. We went back last week looking for it and couldn't find it because there are so many paintings. Last night, it became ours. For a whopping, 50,000 Tz shillings for both (about $31) Now, I just need a hammer and a nail for it to take it's place on the wall!

After our painting excitement, we went to dinner on the Terrace. There was a nice breeze on a warm, winter evening. Liam ordered a fillet mignon (which actually looked more like pot roast -he did say it was tasty). I ordered one grilled lobster, but for some reason my plate showed up with TWO!!! Woo hoo! I was in heaven. Those little boogers were quite tasty.

Full and happy, we wandered home and spent a few hours talking to our guard about books. If you have any extra books laying around, pack them in a flat rate box and send them our way. Books are VERY expensive here and the guards would really enjoy them.

It's a rough life in Tanzania.


Traveling through Africa...

Friday, August 12, 2011

The whole reason we are here this year is for Liam to travel throughout Sub-Sahara Africa to learn about cultures, customs, and issues of all potential countries he could be stationed at as a Foreign Area Officer (FAO). My job this year is to maximize his travel budget so that I can travel with him and enjoy this massive continent together. Seems like an easy enough task. Well, I'm learning very quickly it is not.

Traveling through Africa requires a carefully calculated plan. It requires extra safety precautions, visas, setting up travel routes, proper currency, and a few more things I'm probably not even aware of yet. Hotels may or may not take credit cards - sometimes due to power outages and sometimes just because they don't. Are mosquito nets included? Malaria isn't on my to-do list. Gas stations should be readily available but you should be prepared just in case they aren't or don't have gas. Don't forget the spare tire, windshield wipers, and other "essential" car parts. Someone said something about getting a wench for their car the other day. I found myself jealous and saying, "I want a wench on my car." I love wenches and four-wheel drive. Is it to early to prepare for rainy season? It's happened. I've gone country. Admitting it is the first step to recovery, correct?

Planes may or may not take off and land where you expect them too. Too top it all off, I'm using information provided on 3-10 websites and 1-4 books at any given moment to find a single hotel. The other day I learned it is a very good thing I grabbed a copy of our marriage license. I've heard it may be necessary to show the document for us to sleep in the same space together at night. Welcome to 1930 peeps - I guess the tan line on my left ring finger means nothing in Africa. I may not being paid in my profession this year, but I'm definitely working hard for our money.

Reasons why I can't wait to raise our babies in Africa...

Thursday, August 11, 2011

I'm starting to realize what an amazing opportunity raising our babies in Africa is going to be. Our kids will never throw fits to go to the zoo to see gorillas, monkeys, giraffes, elephants, lions, rhinos, hippos, and honey badgers. It will be a part of their landscape for the first 10ish years of their lives. They will learn the art of silence and how it can enhance seeing, hearing, feeling, smelling everything around you, especially when you want to acquire a favorite photographic image. Hopefully, they will have an ear for language since they will be around so many. They won't have all of the marketing and outlandish advertising thrown at them by American marketing firms. During the day, we can walk everywhere. Eat foods without all of the preservatives and chemicals even I can't pronounce. They will be outside, playing soccer, running around with other children, and generally have a more active lifestyle than most American children. They will be exposed to germs and have (hopefully) healthy immune systems. They will know how to travel and be responsible while doing so. Know how to be safe in otherwise unsafe situations. Their first backpack may not actually be for school, but to go hiking and camping with mommy and daddy.

And maybe, just maybe, they will learn to love the environment and the spaces we are given like their mommy and daddy and want to wander the world and be a part of it as much as it will be a part of them. I just wish we could have had these experiences with Nora. But, since we can't, I'll keep looking forward to exposing our babies to Africa.


Another reason I love Africa....

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

They are old school Coke lovers here. It's not "new" Coke with high fructose corn syrup. Nope, it comes with REAL sugar cane in a glass bottle. I have died and gone to heaven. And not only does Coke come in glass bottles, but so does everything else. Krest soda water, tonic water, and bitter lemon. 7up. Fanta in all flavors. It is the little things you learn to love.

I'm going to have to visit my sis-in-law the dentist when I get home because I won't be able to afford to have all of my cavities filled...I'm going to have a really hard time leaving Africa...

Learning Swahili

Each and every day I'm learning how little Kiswahili I know. However, the guards, housekeeper, and gardener are excellent teachers.

I have been on the hunt for mint because there is a lot of sugar, soda water, and rum but I have not seen a mint plant anywhere or a Swahili word or phrase for mint. Finally, the internet provided me with some assistance and the guards and I figured out the word: nanaa. Not nanasi (pineapple). Hopefully, Nestor (our gardener) can locate some nanaa...cause it is nearing happy hour!!

A little Kiswahili lesson:
kahawa - coffee
chai - tea
maji - water
Asante sana - Thank you
Karibu - Welcome
rafiki - friend
simba - lion

I'm up to a total of 7 words/phrases. I've got a LONG way to go...


Welcome to Tanzania..

Despite all the chaos of the past month, we are here. In our humble abode,which I might add is bigger than the house we are actually paying for - thank you tax dollars. We have been in Tanzania for two weeks and thus far, we can't complain. The food is delicious, the bugs are staying away, and the weather is a comfortable 70-80 degrees without a lot of humidity. We have guards for protection and a housekeeper and gardener for our sanity. Life is a lot slower - which is actually what we need after losing Nora and reshuffling our lives.

We haven't really done that much because Liam has been working on paperwork so we can begin wandering Africa. We have been wandering around the Msasani Penisula, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Need to take it a little further out into the city but we are still trying to remember how to drive in the right direction.

Here are a couple of funny stories from the past two weeks:
1 - Not too long ago I was having a conversation with one of our guards about snakes. He proceeded to tell me that snakes live in our front yard in a giant tree. He told me not to worry about the green ones (GREEN MAMBA) because they will just come down the tree, look at you, and go right back up. But, the black ones (BLACK MAMBA) will come after you. So, apparently of the two snakes with some of the most deadly neurotoxins in the world, the message I'm supposed to take is I hope there are only GREEN mambas in my tree??!!!!????!!!

2 - While Liam and I were at Bongoyo Island this past weekend, we were walking through a tidal pool (lagoon at high tide). At one point, I see an eel playing in the water and swimming towards Liam. Now, did I react like a calm cool collected adult. ABSOLUTELY NOT. I started screaming "EEL! EEL! EEL!" and running towards the nearest rock to jump on. Liam was a few steps behind me. Needless to say, I then received a stern lecture from my husband about how to identify potential threats by using the face of a clock. I'm pretty much going to guarantee that the next time something like that happens...I'm still going to start screaming and RUN! I need to find a book on oceanic animals in this area so we can start snorkeling and diving (and be less of a chicken shit once I'm educated on what can and will hurt you) once my dive book shows up.

I posted pictures on Facebook of our recent adventure to Bongoyo Island - Here's the link if you would like to see them: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.737896212939.2229365.2808561&l=f7cf7dee77&type=1

Until next time!